I did a lot of research on music events in New Orleans for the week I was there (March 28 – April 1). Yesterday, I covered the food and today, it’s the music. Harmony St. Charles who writes a blog, Harmony St. Charles – Informal Guide to New Orleans, recommended this Off Beat site which has New Orleans music listings. It proved to be very useful. Riley Adams, at The Columns Hotel, was also extremely helpful about good things happening in New Orleans that week.
On Monday, I went with great anticipation to Snug Harbor to see Charmaine Neville. I had heard great things about the place and the music on her site was fine. But the show and place was extremely disappointing. She did a tourist show, assuming, perhaps correctly, that the audience was all from out of town and “taught” us how to pronounce N’Awlins and banged on a cow bell. I am sure her uncles would have been embarrassed and she did not seem to care. I almost asked for a refund on my cover.
Outside on Frenchmen Street, things got better. I briefly listened to the Rob Wagner Trio at d.b.a. (504.942.3731), Big Pearl Blues at the Apple Barrel (504-949-9399), and the New Orleans Jazz Vipers at the Spotted Cat (504-943-3887). The Jazz Vipers do a regular set at the Rock N Bowl on Wednesday and offer current versions of old style swing jazz. All the groups and venues were respectable and good listening. Each seemed more interested in music than the tourist dollar which, with the exception of Snug Harbor, appeared to be the goal of the Frenchmen Street area.
Tuesday, I took in the live music at The Columns, where I was staying. John Rankin had a small group and they did easy listening old style swing jazz.
On Wednesday, I went to the Maple Leaf Bar on Oak Street. I have seen some great bands there before but this night they had a punk rock band, which might appeal to some, but was not for me. So I tried Tipatina’s which had a no cover for a local band night. Once again, I have seen great bands there including Bruce Daigrepont and Cajun Band on several Sunday afternoons, but this night they overcharged the cover with the one group I briefly heard. So it was 0 for 2.
Thursday was the high point and reaffirmed my faith in New Orleans music. I went to the Rock N Bowl for their zydeco night with the Zydeco Force. They played at a fast and steady beat with no break for three straight hours and were still going strong when I left. The dance floor was mobbed with many people my age which was encouraging. Thursday night the Blue Nile, on 534 Frenchmen Street (504-948-2583), had Henry Butler. I saw him the week before at Johnnie D’s Uptown in Somerville, MA so picked the Rock N Bowl. There is some great music on Henry Butler’s site.
On Friday, I went to Cobalt in the Monaco Hotel to hear George Porter and David Torkanowsky do two early happy hour sets. The group included piano, guitar, and drums and they did a very professional job with jazz, blues, and R&B. Next, I went to Bourbon Street to hear Marva Wright, a powerful woman who projects the blues well. I have one of her CDs but I got the nights mixed up so I went over to the Ritz to hear Jeremy Davenport. Their FQB was closed until 10 with a private party so I listened for a bit to George Will play sax with a electric keyboard partner. He was playing the lounge crowd well with standards and acknowledging those from Iowa, Wisconsin and other exotic spots. Finally, I went over to the FQB to see what was happening with Jeremy. He does a nice job with Sinatra and Armstrong type standards while playing trumpet with a good band. Emeril \has hired him as a sidekick for his TV show. The guard was gone from the door so I moved in and heard Jeremy’s last two numbers before the ten o’clock break.
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